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Brooch, 1938
Platinum, white gold, sapphires, and diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
Brooch, 1938
Platinum, white gold, sapphires, and diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
Brooch, 1938
Platinum, white gold, sapphires, and diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
1938

Brooch

This transformable flower brooch dating from 1938 illustrates the importance of naturalist inspiration in the Maison’s creations from the late 1930s onwards. It is made of platinum and- white gold, its foliage pave set with brilliant-cut diamonds, and it ends in a stalk set with baguette diamonds. A detachable flower head nestles in the middle of all this, its heart composed of eight oval sapphires. A sense of movement is conveyed by the slightly crumpled aspect of some of the leaves, as if bent by the wind. The asymmetric nature of the composition enhances this naturalist effect. The stylistic treatment, floral iconography, and transformation system all refer to jewelry compositions of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

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