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Collier Sac du soir Bracellet 1921
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1906 - 1953

The artistic context

The creative boom

The birth of the Maison Alfred Van Cleef & Salomon Arpels on February 10, 1906 perfectly reflected the flourishing jewelry industries in Paris between the very end of the nineteenth century and the early twentieth century, led by members of well-established dynasties within the jewelry trade.

History of this period
1906
Small-scale reproduction of the yacht Varuna, 1906
Mariano Fortuny, Delphos gown, c. 1910–1915. Silk satin. Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.
1918
Chatelaine watch, 1918
Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill, study for a motif presented at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition, Missouri, in 1904. Ink on paper, 7.5 × 7.8 cm. Vienna, MAK.
1919
Lambrequin Anneau brooch, 1919
Leon Bakst, stage set for the ballet Scheherazade created by Michel Fokine for Les Ballets Russes, in 1910. Watercolor on paper. Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.
“The Turban,” 1911. Plate from Les Choses de Paul Poiret vues par Georges Lepape. Private collection.
1920
Purse, 1920
“Creation by Paul Poiret,” 1911. Plate from Les Choses de Paul Poiret vues par Georges Lepape. Washington D.C., Smithsonian Libraries.
1922
Earrings, 1922
Paul Iribe, “Bouquet of roses in a Persian vase,” 1911. Stenciled plate from L’Éventail et la fourrure chez Paquin. Private collection.
1923

Nécessaire

Paul Iribe, bergère sofa, 1913. Solid mahogany with ebony inlay and pink and wine-colored silk, 111 × 90 × 60 cm. Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.
1924
Egyptian Pattern bracelet, 1924
Atelier Martine, Soleils (Suns), 1919. Wallpaper, cylinder print in five colors. Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.
1924
Fleurs enlacées, roses rouges et blanches bracelet, 1924
Jacques-Émile Ruhlmann, “Interior Design,” c. 1924–1925. Stenciled plate from collection of etchings published in four volumes by Albert Lévy.
1925
Cigarette case, 1925
Excerpt from the film by Marcel L’Herbier, L’Inhumaine, 1923. Paris, Centre Pompidou – Musée national d’art moderne.
1924
Long necklace, 1924
Gabriel Guevrekian, cubist garden of the Villa Noailles, c. 1925.
Paul-Louis Mergier, occasional table, c. 1928. Oak and poplar battens, cladding in green Moroccan leather, lock and hinge in lacquered wood with eggshell and mother- of-pearl inlays, tassel trimmings in silk and silver thread, 103 × 130 × 39 cm. Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.

ONYX-EMERALD-DIAMOND COLLECTION

ONYX-EMERALD-DIAMOND COLLECTION

Page from the Van Cleef & Arpels catalog presenting drawings for pendant earrings in emeralds and diamonds, 1923.

Bracelet, 1924. Platinum, emeralds, and diamonds, 180 × 8 mm.

Pampilles earrings, 1923. Platinum, emeralds, and diamonds, 65 × 18 mm.

A unique identity

In the aftermath of the 1925 Exposition internationale des arts décoratifs et industriels modernes, Van Cleef & Arpels pursued its commercial and creative development.

History of this period
Pierre Legrain, African Chair, c. 1924. Palm tree wood, lacquer décor and seat in plywood encased with sheepskin parchment, 78 × 45 × 45 cm. Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.
1926
Bow clip, 1926
Robert Mallet-Stevens, Information and Tourism Pavilion, 1925. Project designed for the Exposition internationale des arts décoratifs et industriels, in Paris. Private collection.
1930
Circle brooch, 1930
Marcel Breuer, Wassily Chair, Model B3, 1925. Steel tubular structure, chromed and polished, covered with leather, 78 × 69 × 72 cm. Private collection.
Anni Albers, preparatory drawing for the Smyrna Rug, 1925. Watercolor, gouache, and graphite pencil on paper, 20.6 × 16.7 cm. New York, MoMA.
1931
Radiator watch, 1931
Fernand Léger, The Baluster, 1926. Gouache, ink and pencil on paper, 36.6 × 31.1 cm. Los Angeles, LACMA.
1931
Necklace, 1931
Francis Jourdain, “Living-room,” 1928. Plate from the album Répertoire du goût moderne, published by Albert Lévy. Private collection.
Jean Dunand, vase designed for fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet, c. 1929. Lacquered hammered tin, 29.2 cm tall. Private collection.
1935
Minaudière, 1935
Le Corbusier, Pierre Jeanneret, Charlotte Perriand, “Interior equipment of a home,” designed for the Salon d’Automne 1929.

LUDO BRACELET WATCHES

LUDO BRACELET WATCHES

Ludo Tourniquet wristwatch, 1937. Yellow gold, rubies, and diamonds, 178 × 50 mm.

Ludo wristwatch, 1949. Yellow gold, Mystery Set sapphires, and diamonds, 190 × 88 mm.

Ludo wristwatch, 1943. Yellow gold, rubies, and diamonds, 195 × 21 mm.

Ludo wristwatch, 1946. Platinum and diamonds, 185 × 20 mm.

Ludo Macarons wristwatch, 1941 Platinum, yellow gold, rubies, sapphires, and diamonds, 185 × 40 mm.
1935
Ludo bracelet, 1935
Emilio Terry, project for a house, 1932. Plume, black ink and wash on card, 23.1 × 32.4 cm. Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.
1935
Copeau brooch, 1935
Raymond Subes, screen with four panels, c. 1934. Brushed wrought iron with polished sections, 180 × 50 cm (each panel). Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.
1937
Cadenas watch, 1937
Man Ray, Cadre de Bolette Natanson, 1934. Silver-gelatin bromide negative on flexible medium. Paris, Centre Pompidou – musée national dʼArt moderne.
Alberto Giacometti, corner wall sconce, c. 1935–1939. Plaster, 26 × 31 × 30 cm. Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.
1937
Thistle clip, 1937
Horst P. Horst, “I Dress as I Please,” 1936. Madeleine Vionnet dress models on a set designed by Emilio Terry, photographs published by Vogue US, 15 March 1936. The Horst Estate.
1937
Fleur Silhouette clip, 1937
Madeleine Vionnet, evening gown, 1937. Rosalba crepe fabric. Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.
1937
Peony clip, 1937
Preparatory drawing of the “lobster gown” by Elsa Schiaparelli in association with Salvador Dalí, for the summer 1937 haute couture collection. Ink on paper, 32 × 38 cm. Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.
1937

Peony clip

From Paris to New York

Following on from the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1937, the World’s Fair held in New York in 1939 was the perfect opportunity for Van Cleef & Arpels to pursue its plans for international expansion.

History of this period
1939
Passe-Partout jewelry, 1939
André Arbus, bed, c. 1937. Lacquered and gilt wood, ivory sconces, 81 × 23 × 107 cm. Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.
1938
Hawaii Bouquet clip, 1938
Vivian Leigh playing Tatiana in the Shakespeare play A Midsummer Night’s Dream, directed by Tyrone Guthrie at the Old Vic Theatre, London, 1937.
1941
Little Winged Fairy clip, 1941
André Arbus, project for a bedroom, 1937. Gouache and pencil on paper. Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.
Madeleine Vionnet, long gown design, 1938–1939. Pencil and gouache on paper, 21 × 27 cm. Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.
1941
Dancer clip, 1941
Robert Piguet dress in black velvet and sequins, published in the Album de la mode du Figaro, winter 1942–1943. Paris, Bibliothèque du musée des arts décoratifs.
1945
Lovebirds brooch, 1945
Gilbert Poillerat, table, 1943. Wrought iron and stucco, 75 × 290 × 109.5 cm. Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.
Serge Roche, project for a garden, 1943. Illustration from the catalogue of the Exposition de l’Union centrale des arts décoratifs at the Pavillon de Marsan in 1943. Paris, Bibliothèque du musée des arts décoratifs.
1946
Place Vendôme cigarette case, 1946
Jean Moral, straw hat adorned with a bouquet from the fields of Sygur, published in the Album de la mode du Figaro, spring 1945. Paris, Bibliothèque du musée des arts décoratifs.
1941

Dancer clip

1947
Cord necklace, 1947
René Gruau, dress by Lucien Lelong published in the Album de la mode du Figaro, spring 1945. Paris, Bibliothèque du musée des arts décoratifs.
1948
Unicorn clip, 1948
Christian Bérard, set design project for Jean Cocteau’s film Beauty and the Beast, 1946. Gouache and ink on paper. Private collection.
1949
Lace Bow clip, 1949
Willy Maywald, Model Renée Breton wears the Bar suit by Maison Christian Dior, spring-summer 1947 haute couture collection, Corolla line.
Press sketch of the Junon dress by Christian Dior, winter 1949 haute couture collection, Milieu du siècle line. Paris, Dior Heritage.
1951
Zip necklace, 1951
Christian Dior, Vilmorin gown, spring-summer 1952 haute couture collection, Sinew line. Cream silk muslin hand- embroidered with threads of green, pink and white cotton, yellow yarn, and white cotton canvas. Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.
1953
Serge Fabric necklace, 1953
Jean Royère, Liane (Vine) sconce, 1953. Patinated iron and rhodoid, 25 × 24 cm. Paris, Musée des arts décoratifs.

Cord jewelry

Cord jewelry

Cord necklace, 1947. Yellow gold, 813 mm.

Cord earrings, 1953. Yellow gold and diamonds, 55 mm. Former collection of HRH Princess Soraya of Iran.

Cord necklace, c. 1950. Platinum, yellow gold, and diamonds, 320 mm.
1900 1910 1920 1930 1940 1950
© Van Cleef & Arpels 2024
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