forewords

Today’s continued desire to nurture, promote, and share this heritage derives from this approach, from this visionnary era. Numerous pioneering, key exhibitions and publications have contributed to this aim, laying the foundations for a methodical approach to understanding and classifying the Collection. The catalog, however, adopts a new viewpoint in pursuit of this course, allowing the Maison’s own experts, notably those of its Patrimony Department created over the past two decades, to recount its history, that of its creations and its savoir-faire. The publication of the catalog of the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, resulting from an exacting scientific approach, is thus made possible by the level of expertise acquired through the study of the Maison, its output, and its Archives. This authoritative publication, composed of a methodical, descriptive, and critical compilation of the works of the patrimonial collection, is characterized by its desire to be both exhaustive and neutral. Over 2,500 pieces representative of Van Cleef & Arpels’ production from 1906 to the 2000s are listed, described, and reproduced here, accompanied by a body of scientific texts on different historical and creative subjects.

The traditional chronological approach has been intentionnally ignored in favor of a chrono-thematic one whereby the jewelryn timepieces, and precious objects have all been reconsidered within the context of the period in which they were created. This approach has proved productive in many ways, allowing us to put our past into perspective while enabling it to interact with the effervescence of the twentieth century. Throughout this study, discoveries have been made of previously unexplored periods, while styles that, at times, had been obscured, have been reappraised, highlighting creations whose artistic and technical values had remained in the shadows.

Furthermore, the decision to present these results in this way led us to question the very nature of our art. A catalog raisonné, as defined by the Académie française, aims to be the most thorough inventory possible of the works of a signe artist, whatever their nature. The singular nature of the jewelry arts cannot be limited to the work of one person, but rather, embraces the diversity of talents involved in creating a piece of jewelry – a collection work. The inventory of Van Cleef & Arpels’ creative output thus focuses on numerous creators, masters in their own fields. For more than a century, these designers, gemmologists, model makers, gem-cutters, jewelers, polishers, and stone-setters have all contributed to the production of an artistic approach that is both unique and striking in its coherence.

The legacy that this body of archives, collective histories, styles, and objects reveals in a new manner is not only witness to a rich past, but also a major source of inspiration for contemporary creation. It is therefore our duty to understand, celebrate, and continue enhancing it, but most importantly, to never alter it. It establishes the very essence of our Maison’s style and identity, the highly recognizable signature of a jeweler – an artist with many hands.

This systemic approach entailed research and in-depth analysis of a body of over two thousand five hundred pieces of jewelry, timepieces, and precious objects. The results of this detailed study are presented in two vol- umes, one covering the years 1906–1953, and the other the period 1954–2000. The rich diversity of this esthetic voyage represents the range of materials and techniques used by Van Cleef & Arpels at different periods, ranging from wood to the mystery set technique, and from engraved ornamental stones* to polished gold, as well as the stylistic approaches and even the artistic currents that influenced the Maison. The extent to which the Maison has always been rooted in its time is seen in the surprising links that reveal its adher- ence to Art Deco and its curiosity for other cultures, as well as the impact of the first steps on the Moon or the hippie countercurrent. It is clear that the technique, composition, and boldness of the pieces of jewelry are in constant dialog with the present and with other disciplines. The jewelry arts, gold- and silverwork and the history of costume, furniture, painting, and sculpture all feed off each other, giving rise to striking combinations of artistic expressions. Seen in this way, the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection provides a creative panorama that is both visual and didactic, interspersed with examples that serve as major temporal markers. These milestones mark an important turning point or development, and allow us to comprehend the construc- tion of a past and an identity, as well as the coming-of-age of a Maison with a recognizable style. Its codes and succes- sive innovations outline the creation of a jewelry language that still exists today. Along the way, the reader is free to vary the focal range, from contemplative wandering to immersion in details, using different approaches as ways of apprehending the Collection, ranging from explanatory captions to scientific texts ded- icated to major world’s fairs and the inspirational sources present in Van Cleef & Arpels’ production. The vocation of the Patrimony department itself is expressed here: namely, to preserve, study, and make the Collection accessible to as wide an audience as possible, be it amateur or specialist. This catalog is an authoritative work on the Maison’s Patrimonial Collection, paying tribute to its remarkable pieces that serve as sources of wonderment for the creations of tomorrow.

To date, the Maison’s Collection is composed of more than two thousand and seven hundred pieces of jewelry, watches, and precious objects, signed and stamped, tracing its creativity from 1906 to the present. This Collection is in keeping with a policy of acquiring, conserving, and making the most of this heritage.

The above-mentioned passion and tribute paid by Jacques Arpels to the savoir-faire of designers, craftsmen, and contributors still constitute the guiding principles of the Collection’s acquisition policy. Spurred on by this desire, the Maison endeavors to find antique pieces with a prestigious provenance that illustrate their stylistic evolution and history. The three main sources for antique jewelry and timepieces are auction houses, dealers, and private collectors. A watchful eye is permanently kept on this extremely challenging international market. The selection of works takes account of the context in which they were created and is careful to avoid an anachronistic outlook. In the early 2000s, when the Maison was purchased by Richemont, the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection was the work of a single man. Now, however, it is the result of a collective vision. The selection, therefore, is jointly made by the members of the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection team and depends on various criteria, notably each work’s significance within the Maison’s creative history, as well as its rarity, technical complexity, and state of conservation. Every piece, be it part of a precious metal series or an important High Jewelry composition, is selected with the same care, with the aim of creating a representative, if not exhaustive, group. The acquisition policy is extremely rigorous—only works considered as originals are accepted, or ones where the design has been modified by the Maison. The Archives, therefore, play a vital role in this acquisition process, as the reference for accepting or refusing a work. The drawings, the registration of new creations, the product cards giving details of materials and prices, the production order books, and the special-order books are all sources that enable a work to be approved as part of the Patrimonial Collection.

The Collection is carefully and regularly cared for. Each piece of jewelry, watch or precious object is repaired and cleaned, mindful not to remove its patina, before being controlled, photographed, referenced, and studied in order to inform the various means of transmission. The Collection’s aim is to serve as a testimony of the history of the Maison’s creations throughout different periods. It helps reaffirm the singularity of the Van Cleef & Arpels’ style while displaying its know-how. It serves as esthetic inspiration, as well as a reference for techniques. It highlights the materials showcased by the Maison’s jewelers and the technical innovations used or invented by them. The Collection has retained its role as a source of inspiration for contemporary creations. It is a working reference for designers and craftsmen, and the anchor point of the Maison’s creative vision and identity. The Collection’s pieces are therefore what provide the framework for the catalog and determine the chronological span of each chapter.

The Collection travels the world, presented in patrimonial exhibitions in boutiques, museums, and international institutions. It is the subject of studies, authoritative articles, publications, reports, and conferences on jewels, watchmaking, and the history of French jewelry, aimed at all generations in the hope of inspiring new vocations. The Collection echoes the history of French jewelry, illustrating the style, creativity, and savoir-faire of Van Cleef & Arpels. In short, its role is to surprise, inspire, transmit, delight, and create longing.