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Hat pins, 1925
Platinum, rock crystal, and diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
Hat pins, 1925
Platinum, rock crystal, and diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
1925

Hat pins

Two examples of this hat pin exist in the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, illustrating an object of female finery no longer in use. A rock-crystal component engraved with striations and adorned with a wheatsheaf motif in openwork platinum set with rose-cut diamonds is fixed to the end of a steel rod.

Like parchment, straw, and exotic wood in furniture design, the presence of rock crystal here illustrates the re-evaluation of little-used materials by Art Deco designers during the 1920s. Although it is less rare than other gems, rock crystal is nonetheless popular for its transparency. It is found alongside diamonds, platinum, and pearls in white diamond jewelry from the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, adorning monochrome compositions, as mentioned in the women’s press of the period: “Maisons such as […] Van Cleef & Arpels have made crystal jewelry an object of great value.”1Anonymous, “Les joyaux éphémères”, Vogue Paris (août 1926): 43.

A useful and decorative accessory

At the start of the twentieth century, the hat pin was an indispensable ornament of a woman’s outfit. Not only was it a useful object that held a hat in place, but it was also decorative. Since its democratization in the nineteenth century, the hat was the finishing touch to a woman’s outfit as well as to a man’s and it gradually became a social marker.

Page from the Van Cleef & Arpels catalog presenting a Bird hat pin in emeralds, feathers, and diamonds, 1922.

The contribution of jewelers to the world of fashion

Hat pins personalized people’s appearance and were often worn in pairs,2Anonymous, “Les joyaux éphémères”, Vogue Paris (août 1926): 43. as testified by the pair in the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection. Like clasps on bags, hat pins are part of the repertoire that jewelers contributed to the world of fashion. They illustrate the close collaboration that existed between various members of the fashion world and the jewelry arts at the start of the twentieth century.

1927

Bird of Paradise brooch

1927

Bird of Paradise brooch

This Bird of Paradise brooch dating from 1927 is part of a set of “exotic birds from distant lands” and other species living in France that adorned brooches and hat pins initiated during the 1910s and the 1920s.
It is an outstanding example of 1920s white diamond jewelry and renders the bird’s anatomy as realistically as possible. The plumage is finely executed in platinum edged with a beaded thread, and set with rose- and brilliant- cut diamonds throughout.

Page from the Van Cleef & Arpels catalog presenting diamond Bird brooches and hat pins, 1922.

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