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Corbeille de fleurs brooch, 1927
Platinum, emeralds, rubies, and diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
Corbeille de fleurs brooch, 1927
Platinum, emeralds, rubies, and diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
1927

Corbeille de fleurs brooch

This Corbeille de fleurs (flowers basket) brooch marks the apogee of the Art Deco style in the jewelry created by Van Cleef & Arpels. A plant composition centered around three flowers unfolds within an oval frame of platinum pave-set with diamonds.

The petals of the flowers are set with buff-top rubies arranged around a center composed of a brilliant-cut diamond. They are surrounded by ruby palmettes and foliage formed of navettes set with buff-top emeralds. The basket containing the bouquet is depicted by a knurled weaving of brilliants and two rows of baguette-cut diamonds at its base. Two rings set with brilliants link the neck of the basket with the oval frame of the brooch.

Iconography inherited from the 17th century

Advertising design by René Sim Lacaze for a Corbeille de fleurs brooch, 1927.

The flower basket theme, borrowed from eighteenth-century decorative arts, is frequently seen in creations dating from the 1910s through to the early 1920s, most notably in pieces realized at the very start of the Art Deco movement when features of a type of classicism inherited from previous centuries were combined with geometric stylization, as seen in the work of André Groult and Louis Süe1For example, the sofa designed by Louis Süe in 1912, now housed in the musée des Arts décoratifs in Paris (Inv. 990.334)..

Louis Süe, sofa, 1912. Yellow lacquered beech, green and red lacquered beech, green leather-look armrests and seats, 89 × 124 cm. Paris, musée des Arts décoratifs.

A perennial source of inspiration

When the Corbeille de fleurs brooch became part of the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection in 1987, it served as the inspiration for a contemporary version developed the following decade. This piece is proof of the inspiration afforded by a patrimonial collection, as well as the timelessness of certain motifs.

1926

Nécessaire

1926

Nécessaire

Like the Fleurs enlacées, roses rouges et blanches bracelet dating from 1924, both this purse and this nécessaire illustrate the popularity of stylized floral motifs during the 1920s.
Roses of buff-top rubies, yellow sapphires, emeralds, and diamonds in simplified lines adorn the central part of the nécessaire, while the clasp of this purse bears a frieze of overlapping moonstone flowers with ruby hearts, surrounded by jade leaves on a background pave-set with diamonds.

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